Mayflash Wii Classic Controller Driver

MayFlash Dual Port for Wii Classic Controller Pro for Nunchuk Remote to PC USB for PS3 Adapter. From Mayflash Wii Classic Controller Adapter In both mode its an analog axis but when dontroller pressed it activates a digital button, pretty neat. I thought Mayflash's adapter for the Wii Classic Controller (Pro) was rather bad. It connected the controller to the PC, but it's compatibility was terrible. Most games I tried didn't even accept the analog sticks of the Classic Controller and the one's that did had still problems with the analog sticks (more precisely, it had dead zones at the. For Wii U on the Wii U, a GameFAQs message board topic titled 'Anyone use ur may. Nintendo Wii Classic Controller Pro Extension. X360 controller. Xwiimote uses their own drivers for it and gives you full control, you can.

To simplify the process of creating V-USB based devices, I created the USnooBie.

Both ports are shown in the joypad control panel as “Dual Wii Box” with now distinction in names, but usually the rightmost physical port is the player 1, in RetroArch they both have the “Dual Wii Box #0” title (have to guess which is which) in the sdl2 mode. Does anyone have any guides on how to play using a GCN controller and mayflash pc/wii u adapter? I plugged the USB's in, the pc recognized it and installed drivers, and I don't know where to go from here.


USnooBie official site


You can buy it from Seeed Studio, it should come with all the parts you need and the bootloader all ready to go.
The USnooBie is a microcontroller kit that does not require any sort of AVR programmer or USB-to-serial converters to load and run compiled code. It's hardware design allows the user to develop low cost USB devices with Atmel's AVR ATmega microcontrollers. It can also be used to develop projects which are not USB devices. It is even compatible with Arduino.

USnooBie Assembly Instructions and Parts Breakdown

This is a short version of the official assembly guide, visit the official assembly guide to read more details.

Assemble the USnooBie according to these steps. The smaller components must be soldered first, before the larger components, this makes assembly easier. The parts required are also described here so this document also acts as a part list so you may find replacement components.

Two 68 ohm resistors

These resistors limit the current between the USB device (microcontroller) and the USB host (computer) on the D+ and D- lines of the USB bus. They act as terminating resistors, so the terminating impedance matches the USB cable's characteristic impedance, reducing signal reflections. They are small and low components and are thus soldered first.

These should be two 68 ohm 1/4 watt +/- 5% tolerance carbon film resistors.

D- pull-up resistor

This resistor is placed on the D- line of the USB bus. When D- is pulled up, it indicates to the USB host that the USB device is a low speed USB 1.1 device. This resistor is usually 2.2 kilo-ohm if pulling up to 5V and 1.5 kilo-ohm when pulling up to 3.3V. 1.8 kilo-ohm works well with both 5V and 3.3V.

This resistor should be one 1.8 kilo ohm 1/4 watt +/- 5% tolerance carbon film resistor.

Note: the original design used a 1.7 kilo ohm resistor, the kit being sold is provided with a 1.8 kilo ohm resistor, either should work. The schematics may show a 1.7 kilo ohm resistor (typo, sorry).

LED current limit resistor

This resistor limits the current for the power indication LED. If this current is not limited, then the LED's lifespan is drastically reduced.

This resistor should be a 330 ohm 1/4 watt +/- 5% tolerance carbon film resistor.

Two 3.6V Zener diodes

These 3.6V Zener diodes ensures that the signal on the D+ and D- lines of the USB bus are within acceptable limits. This allows the USB device to run at 5V without damaging other devices on the USB bus.

These should be 1N5227B 3.6V Zener diodes. There have been reports that certain Zener diodes will not work. 200mW Zener diodes may not work but 500mW Zener diodes will (source: http://forums.obdev.at/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=4677).

Ensure that you place these parts in the correct orientation as indicated by the symbol on the PCB. The triangle on the symbol points in the direction which the stripe on the diode should be.

Reverse current protection diode

This part is not included in the kit provided by Seeed Studio. You must replace this part with a jumper wire or else the USnooBie will not receive power from the USB port.

Power indicator LED

This LED indicates that there is power on the power bus. Note that it does not indicate the amount of power, so even if it is lit, it does not guarantee that certain components are receiving enough voltage.

This must be a 3mm diameter standard LED.

This LED may be omitted if you want to save power or you want a 'stealthy' USB device.

Ensure that you place this part in the correct orientation as indicated by the symbol on the PCB. If you are unable to determine the direction of the LED, then you should test the LED before installing it. The 'flat side' should be the cathode, which should be negative to light up, while the 'round side' is the anode, which should be positive to light up. Use a 3V coin cell battery to perform this test really quickly to avoid damaging the LED.

USB A male connector

This allows the USnooBie to be plugged directly into a USB port, or you can buy a USB extension cable from the dollar store to connect it.

Two tactile SPST momentary on push button switch

One button is used to reset the AVR microcontroller, the other button acts as a bootloader activation button. Upon reset, the AVR runs the bootloader section code which checks whether or not the bootloader activation button is held down. If it is held down, the bootloader becomes a USBasp device so you may load your own code into the AVR microcontroller. If it is not held down, then the bootloader jumps to the application section to run the code you have previously loaded.

This bootloader activation button is placed on the D- line, when pressed during normal use (not during boot time), it will cause the USB device to appear disconnected from the USB host. This is useful in certain situations when you require your device to disconnect without physically disconnecting.

The Omron B3F-1000 tactile SPST momentarty on push button switch should be used here.

28 pin DIP chip socket

A 28 pin DIP chip socket is used to hold the AVR ATmega microcontroller.

Due to the placement of the three tandum capacitors, a 28 pin DIP chip socket must be used (or two 14 pin DIP chip sockets, the PCB layout is designed to allow this) to hold the AVR ATmega microcontroller. The chip socket should have a gap down its center, giving you room to place the three capacitors. Solder in the sockets first, then insert the capacitors through the gap. See the picture provided.

Ensure that you place this part in the correct orientation as indicated by the symbol on the PCB.

Do not insert the chip into the socket until the board passes some simple testing (later steps).

Three monolithic capacitors

The 0.1uF capacitor is a decoupling capacitor which smooths out fine ripples on the power bus. The code on this capacitor should be 104 (meaning 0.1uF).

The two 27pF capacitors cleans the signals from the 12 MHz crystal. The code on these capacitor should be 270 (meaning 27 pF).

These capacitors can be monolithic or ceramic.

12 MHz crystal

The 12 MHz crystal is the clock source for the AVR microcontroller. It is 12 MHz because that's the best clock speed for 3.3V opertation that is supported by V-USB.

The crystal must be a 12 MHz crystal in a HC49 package. Low profile packaging is prefered, as long as the pin spacing is the same.

Voltage selection jumper

A three pin header is used to select the voltage on the power bus, a shunt block is used on the 3 pin header to make the connection that makes the selection. This allows you to choose between using the 5V power supply from the USB port or using the 3.3V power supply provided by the 3.3V voltage regulator.

Do not install the jumper shunt block until the board has passed some tests (described in later steps).

PTC resettable fuse

This fuse protects the USB host from damage during short circuit situations by cutting off current. The fuse will heat up when current reaches unacceptable levels and it will become a resistor, limiting the current drastically, and when the fuse cools down, it loses its resistance and conducts current again. This will protect your computer if you accidentally short your power bus. Since it resets itself automatically after cooling down, it will never need to be replaced (unlike an ordinary fuse).

Note that the USB bus can only supply up to 500mA of current, the fuse provided will build up resistance once it reaches 250mA and cut off power completely if the current reaches 500mA. For most applications, this amount of power is enough, if you require more power, consider utilizing an external power source as the power supply, instead of your computer.

This component should be the RXE025 from Tyco Electronics, it is the same PTC resettable fuse sold on SparkFun. It has a I-hold of 250mA and I-trip of 500mA.

4.7 uF electrolytic capacitor

This capacitor smooths out large slow ripples on the power bus, and acts as a small reservoir during sudden current draw.

This should be a 4.7 uF electrolytic capacitor rated at 10 volts in radial packaging.

Ensure that you place this part in the correct orientation as indicated by the symbol on the PCB. The capacitor should have a strip on the side with negative (minus signs) symbols, which corresponds to the negative side of the capacitor symbol on the PCB (opposite to the pad with the positive + symbol).

3.3V low dropout voltage regulator

This should be a TC1262 in TO-220 packaging. It is a low dropout voltage regulator that will step down the 5V USB power down to 3.3V.

This may be omitted if you do not want a 3.3V power source.

Ensure that you place this part in the correct orientation as indicated by the symbol on the PCB. The metal heatsink on the voltage regulator should face towards the inside of the board (as indicated by the thicker silkscreened line).

This component must be a 3.3V low dropout voltage regulator in 3 pin TO-220 packaging. Microchip's TC1262 or similar may be used.

Male headers

There are three groups of male headers. One long group that has 16 pins, two shorter groups with 6 pins each.

These male headers allow you to insert the USnooBie into a breadboard. These headers should go on the bottom of the PCB.

To make soldering these header pins easier, you can try inserting them into the breadboard first, and then placing the USnooBie PCB on top, so that the breadboard keeps the header pins straight and holds them in place for you while you solder from the PCB's top side.

Continuity testing the ground

Use a multimeter's continuity tester to check that all pins/pads/joints that are supposed to be ground are connected to each other and only each other.

If this test passes, then you should be able to check the voltages while powered up without worrying too much about a short causing massive current draw.

Continuity testing the power bus

Use a multimeter's continuity tester to check that all pins/pads/joints that are supposed to be on the power bus are connected to each other and only to each other. Do this while the voltage selection jumper shunt block is not installed.

Voltage check

Plug in the USnooBie into a powered USB port and check the voltages on the pads/pins/joints which are supposed to be 5V. Do the same for the ones that are supposed to be 3.3V.

Install the jumper shunt block on to the voltage selection jumper pin header. Check that you are able to select the voltage on the power bus by moving the jumper shunt block. When there is power on the power bus, the power indicator LED should also light up.

Insert the microcontroller

Insert the AVR ATmega328P microcontroller into the 28 pin DIP chip socket to finish constructing the USnooBie.

If the correct bootloader is already loaded on the microcontroller and the microcontroller's fuse bit settings are correct, you can start to use the USnooBie (if you buy it from Seeed Studio, then this is done for you already). Follow the instructions for loading code onto the USnooBie to check that it functions as a USB device when connected to a computer.


Usage Guide


This is the short version of the official usage guide, go visit the official usage guide for more details.

To enter the bootloader, hold down the bootloader-activation button, then press and release the reset button, then release the bootloader-activation button. The bootloader should appear to your computer as an USBasp programmer, so you may now use it as though you were using an USBasp with AVRDUDE.Mayflash Wii Classic Controller Driver
A typical AVRDUDE command would start with 'avrdude -c usbasp -p atmega328p', and to load a hex file into flash memory, it looks like 'avrdude -c usbasp -p atmega328p -U flash:w:filename.hex'. You will not be able to modify any fuse-bits, which prevents you from 'damaging' the bootloader.
There's a good chance that you'll require the USBasp drivers in order for the USBaspLoader bootloader to work. The drivers can be found here To simplify the process of creating V-USB based devices, I created the USnooBie.

USnooBie official site

Mayflash Gamecube Adapter Update


You can buy it from Seeed Studio, it should come with all the parts you need and the bootloader all ready to go.
The USnooBie is a microcontroller kit that does not require any sort of AVR programmer or USB-to-serial converters to load and run compiled code. It's hardware design allows the user to develop low cost USB devices with Atmel's AVR ATmega microcontrollers. It can also be used to develop projects which are not USB devices. It is even compatible with Arduino.

USnooBie Assembly Instructions and Parts Breakdown

This is a short version of the official assembly guide, visit the official assembly guide to read more details.

Assemble the USnooBie according to these steps. The smaller components must be soldered first, before the larger components, this makes assembly easier. The parts required are also described here so this document also acts as a part list so you may find replacement components.

Two 68 ohm resistors

These resistors limit the current between the USB device (microcontroller) and the USB host (computer) on the D+ and D- lines of the USB bus. They act as terminating resistors, so the terminating impedance matches the USB cable's characteristic impedance, reducing signal reflections. They are small and low components and are thus soldered first.

These should be two 68 ohm 1/4 watt +/- 5% tolerance carbon film resistors.

D- pull-up resistor

This resistor is placed on the D- line of the USB bus. When D- is pulled up, it indicates to the USB host that the USB device is a low speed USB 1.1 device. This resistor is usually 2.2 kilo-ohm if pulling up to 5V and 1.5 kilo-ohm when pulling up to 3.3V. 1.8 kilo-ohm works well with both 5V and 3.3V.

This resistor should be one 1.8 kilo ohm 1/4 watt +/- 5% tolerance carbon film resistor.

Note: the original design used a 1.7 kilo ohm resistor, the kit being sold is provided with a 1.8 kilo ohm resistor, either should work. The schematics may show a 1.7 kilo ohm resistor (typo, sorry).

LED current limit resistor

This resistor limits the current for the power indication LED. If this current is not limited, then the LED's lifespan is drastically reduced.

This resistor should be a 330 ohm 1/4 watt +/- 5% tolerance carbon film resistor.

Two 3.6V Zener diodes

These 3.6V Zener diodes ensures that the signal on the D+ and D- lines of the USB bus are within acceptable limits. This allows the USB device to run at 5V without damaging other devices on the USB bus.

These should be 1N5227B 3.6V Zener diodes. There have been reports that certain Zener diodes will not work. 200mW Zener diodes may not work but 500mW Zener diodes will (source: http://forums.obdev.at/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=4677).

Ensure that you place these parts in the correct orientation as indicated by the symbol on the PCB. The triangle on the symbol points in the direction which the stripe on the diode should be.

Reverse current protection diode

This part is not included in the kit provided by Seeed Studio. You must replace this part with a jumper wire or else the USnooBie will not receive power from the USB port.

Power indicator LED

This LED indicates that there is power on the power bus. Note that it does not indicate the amount of power, so even if it is lit, it does not guarantee that certain components are receiving enough voltage.

This must be a 3mm diameter standard LED.

This LED may be omitted if you want to save power or you want a 'stealthy' USB device.

Ensure that you place this part in the correct orientation as indicated by the symbol on the PCB. If you are unable to determine the direction of the LED, then you should test the LED before installing it. The 'flat side' should be the cathode, which should be negative to light up, while the 'round side' is the anode, which should be positive to light up. Use a 3V coin cell battery to perform this test really quickly to avoid damaging the LED.

USB A male connector

This allows the USnooBie to be plugged directly into a USB port, or you can buy a USB extension cable from the dollar store to connect it.

Two tactile SPST momentary on push button switch

One button is used to reset the AVR microcontroller, the other button acts as a bootloader activation button. Upon reset, the AVR runs the bootloader section code which checks whether or not the bootloader activation button is held down. If it is held down, the bootloader becomes a USBasp device so you may load your own code into the AVR microcontroller. If it is not held down, then the bootloader jumps to the application section to run the code you have previously loaded.

This bootloader activation button is placed on the D- line, when pressed during normal use (not during boot time), it will cause the USB device to appear disconnected from the USB host. This is useful in certain situations when you require your device to disconnect without physically disconnecting.

The Omron B3F-1000 tactile SPST momentarty on push button switch should be used here.

28 pin DIP chip socket

A 28 pin DIP chip socket is used to hold the AVR ATmega microcontroller.

Due to the placement of the three tandum capacitors, a 28 pin DIP chip socket must be used (or two 14 pin DIP chip sockets, the PCB layout is designed to allow this) to hold the AVR ATmega microcontroller. The chip socket should have a gap down its center, giving you room to place the three capacitors. Solder in the sockets first, then insert the capacitors through the gap. See the picture provided.

Ensure that you place this part in the correct orientation as indicated by the symbol on the PCB.

Do not insert the chip into the socket until the board passes some simple testing (later steps).

Three monolithic capacitors

The 0.1uF capacitor is a decoupling capacitor which smooths out fine ripples on the power bus. The code on this capacitor should be 104 (meaning 0.1uF).

The two 27pF capacitors cleans the signals from the 12 MHz crystal. The code on these capacitor should be 270 (meaning 27 pF).

These capacitors can be monolithic or ceramic.

12 MHz crystal

The 12 MHz crystal is the clock source for the AVR microcontroller. It is 12 MHz because that's the best clock speed for 3.3V opertation that is supported by V-USB.

The crystal must be a 12 MHz crystal in a HC49 package. Low profile packaging is prefered, as long as the pin spacing is the same.

Voltage selection jumper

A three pin header is used to select the voltage on the power bus, a shunt block is used on the 3 pin header to make the connection that makes the selection. This allows you to choose between using the 5V power supply from the USB port or using the 3.3V power supply provided by the 3.3V voltage regulator.

Do not install the jumper shunt block until the board has passed some tests (described in later steps).

PTC resettable fuse

This fuse protects the USB host from damage during short circuit situations by cutting off current. The fuse will heat up when current reaches unacceptable levels and it will become a resistor, limiting the current drastically, and when the fuse cools down, it loses its resistance and conducts current again. This will protect your computer if you accidentally short your power bus. Since it resets itself automatically after cooling down, it will never need to be replaced (unlike an ordinary fuse).

Note that the USB bus can only supply up to 500mA of current, the fuse provided will build up resistance once it reaches 250mA and cut off power completely if the current reaches 500mA. For most applications, this amount of power is enough, if you require more power, consider utilizing an external power source as the power supply, instead of your computer.

This component should be the RXE025 from Tyco Electronics, it is the same PTC resettable fuse sold on SparkFun. It has a I-hold of 250mA and I-trip of 500mA.

4.7 uF electrolytic capacitor

This capacitor smooths out large slow ripples on the power bus, and acts as a small reservoir during sudden current draw.

This should be a 4.7 uF electrolytic capacitor rated at 10 volts in radial packaging.

Ensure that you place this part in the correct orientation as indicated by the symbol on the PCB. The capacitor should have a strip on the side with negative (minus signs) symbols, which corresponds to the negative side of the capacitor symbol on the PCB (opposite to the pad with the positive + symbol).

3.3V low dropout voltage regulator

This should be a TC1262 in TO-220 packaging. It is a low dropout voltage regulator that will step down the 5V USB power down to 3.3V.

This may be omitted if you do not want a 3.3V power source.

Ensure that you place this part in the correct orientation as indicated by the symbol on the PCB. The metal heatsink on the voltage regulator should face towards the inside of the board (as indicated by the thicker silkscreened line).

This component must be a 3.3V low dropout voltage regulator in 3 pin TO-220 packaging. Microchip's TC1262 or similar may be used.

Male headers

There are three groups of male headers. One long group that has 16 pins, two shorter groups with 6 pins each.

These male headers allow you to insert the USnooBie into a breadboard. These headers should go on the bottom of the PCB.

To make soldering these header pins easier, you can try inserting them into the breadboard first, and then placing the USnooBie PCB on top, so that the breadboard keeps the header pins straight and holds them in place for you while you solder from the PCB's top side.

Continuity testing the ground

Use a multimeter's continuity tester to check that all pins/pads/joints that are supposed to be ground are connected to each other and only each other.

If this test passes, then you should be able to check the voltages while powered up without worrying too much about a short causing massive current draw.

Continuity testing the power bus

Use a multimeter's continuity tester to check that all pins/pads/joints that are supposed to be on the power bus are connected to each other and only to each other. Do this while the voltage selection jumper shunt block is not installed.

Voltage check

Plug in the USnooBie into a powered USB port and check the voltages on the pads/pins/joints which are supposed to be 5V. Do the same for the ones that are supposed to be 3.3V.

Install the jumper shunt block on to the voltage selection jumper pin header. Check that you are able to select the voltage on the power bus by moving the jumper shunt block. When there is power on the power bus, the power indicator LED should also light up.

Insert the microcontroller

Insert the AVR ATmega328P microcontroller into the 28 pin DIP chip socket to finish constructing the USnooBie.

If the correct bootloader is already loaded on the microcontroller and the microcontroller's fuse bit settings are correct, you can start to use the USnooBie (if you buy it from Seeed Studio, then this is done for you already). Follow the instructions for loading code onto the USnooBie to check that it functions as a USB device when connected to a computer.


Usage Guide


This is the short version of the official usage guide, go visit the official usage guide for more details.

Mayflash Wii Classic Controller Driver Windows 7

To enter the bootloader, hold down the bootloader-activation button, then press and release the reset button, then release the bootloader-activation button. The bootloader should appear to your computer as an USBasp programmer, so you may now use it as though you were using an USBasp with AVRDUDE.
Mayflash Wii Classic Controller Driver

Mayflash Support Download

A typical AVRDUDE command would start with 'avrdude -c usbasp -p atmega328p', and to load a hex file into flash memory, it looks like 'avrdude -c usbasp -p atmega328p -U flash:w:filename.hex'. You will not be able to modify any fuse-bits, which prevents you from 'damaging' the bootloader.

Mayflash Gamecube Adapter Pc Driver


Wii Classic Controller Pro

There's a good chance that you'll require the USBasp drivers in order for the USBaspLoader bootloader to work. The drivers can be found here